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Holiday Spice soap recipe

HOLIDAY POMANDER SPICE SOAP

During Victorian times, it was popular to make po-manders to scent the room, especially at Christmas time. Normally, one would take an orange, puncture it with holes and fill the holes with whole cloves. Sometimes, it was then rolled in cinnamon and placed on a dish to scent the room. When dried, some used pomanders as ornaments for the holiday tree. Like the spice tea soap, some of the ingredients speed up trace. Feel free to use a bit more water if you run into problems. The best solution is to work quickly and get your traced batch into your mold.

24 ounces soybean shortening
10 ounces coconut oil
10 ounces olive oil
15 ounces water
6.2 ounces lye
1 ounce patchouli essential oil
2 ounces sweet orange essential oil
12 drops cinnamon leaf essential oil
½ teaspoon brown oxide colorant
1 teaspoon powdered clove
1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon

follow soap making instructions. See tab on top of every page that says HOW TO MAKE SOAP.

Tea Tree Ice Soap recipe

Tea Tree Ice Soap

The reason we call this tea tree ice is because of the half ounce of peppermint used in the recipe. It is just enough to make a nice, cooling and tingly feeling on the skin. The tea tree works as a natural antifungal and antibacterial, great for problems like athletes foot. But this doesn’t have to be just a medicinal recipe. The inclusion of the lavender essential oil makes this blend a pleasing, refreshing scent.

Base oils for soap recipe
2 ounces castor oil
11 ounces coconut oil
25 ounces olive oil
5 ounces palm oil
1 ounce shea butter
1 teaspoon white oxide (optional)
6.2 ounces sodium hydroxide (lye)
14 ounces water

2 ounces tea tree essential oil
1/2 ounce peppermint essential oil
1/2 ounce lavender essential oil

If this is your first time making soap, be sure to read our SOAP MAKING INSTRUCTIONS, top of every page on our site HOW TO MAKE SOAP.

Herbal massage oil recipe

lavender plantThis particular massage oil is a type of oil infusion.  It is made by steeping plant matter in oils for several days or weeks in an attempt to extract the properties of the plants.  This is a great excuse for planting more herbs and healing flowers in your home garden. 

In a pint jar add two handfuls of freshly picked rose petals.  Rose petals tend to take up a lot of space because of their shape.  If you have to, press the petals down firmly with a wooden spoon.  Don’t worry about crushing the petals in the process – this will actually help release some of the skin loving oils into your massage base oil.

Next, add a teaspoon of lavender buds, a teaspoon of calendula petals and a teaspoon of comfrey leaves.  Double check that you are using real calendula and not plain garden marigold.  While calendula is sometimes also known as pot marigold, they are two different plants with different properties.  Plain marigold, usually bordering gardens to deter rabbits, is also known as Tagetes.

The comfrey is an important ingredient for a massage oil.  Comfrey is known to help with pains and aches as well as bruises.

Now that all of these ingredients are in your pint jar, add 1/2 cup jojoba oil then top off the rest of the way with your oil of choice.  Some great oils for massage are sweet almond and grapeseed but its also perfectly acceptable to use oils found in your kitchen cabinet such as olive or canola – perhaps even a blend of the two.

Put the lid on the jar and give it a good shake.  Place the jar in a warm place, possibly beside the kitchen stove.  Every morning, shake the jar well.  Do this for the next two weeks.  After that, strain the oil through a fine mesh sieve and discard the plant matter.  You may have to strain a few times to remove all the plant particles.  At this time, you can use your new herbal massage oil as is or even add a few drops of your favorite essential oil.  Lavender is a good option for this particular blend of herbs and flowers.

Note – the reason why we use jojoba oil in this recipe is that it helps to prevent the other oils from going rancid.  Without the jojoba, the jar of oils which were kept in a warm place for weeks will have an off smell after a while, a sure sign of rancidity.  Jojoba helps with this.  Additionally, you can add the contents of four or five vitamin E capsules.  Final step, trade massages with your sweetie and try out your new herbal massage oil.

Cold day, slow sales

a few people came into the shop for loose tea today but that was about it.  Nashville isn’t used to a solid week of below freezing temperatures.  It should be in the 40’s this time of year for us.  So, it looks like most customers stayed in.  The bad part is, for the store, they stayed in all week long!  Gregory.

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Welcome to the soap and aromatherapy blog

Welcome to the aromagregory blog, mainly dedicated to learning about natural soap, soap making and aromatherapy. We like to call making your own soap and bath products a “bathroots movement”.  Here you will find soap making directions, soap recipes, video tutorials (coming soon), soap making recipes and everything you need to know about making soap and other handcrafted products. From how to make soap, how to cut it, cure it and package the soap – we will guide you through the entire process so that even the very basic beginner can start a soap or bath and body company. Not looking to start a business? That’s okay. All of the bath and soap recipes can be used at home for personal use or to share with friends and family.

We have been making soaps, lotions, candles and bath products since 1999.  Our soaps are found coast to coast, mainly in small boutiques – from a New York natural pharmacy to a Spa in Los Angeles.  And it all began with an investment of $50 for supplies.  Our soap company is  Aromagregory where we make and sell handmade soaps, essential oils, shea butter, aromatherapy candles, bath salts and natural liquid soap.  Our site for wholesale bulk soap is SOAP BY THE LOAF where customers may order loaves or blocks of soap for resale with their own labels.  So, as you can see, I’ve had over a decade to collect and test bath and body recipes.  More about me, our company history and how it all started can be found on the ABOUT page.

For the past few years I’ve toyed with the idea of teaching others how to make soap and bath products, ruminating over exactly how I wanted to do it.  I have even taught hands-on soapmaking classes in our retail store and recently started to offer classes on a larger scale.  While teaching is a lot of fun, it cannot reach as many people as it could by placing recipes and directions on the web. I hope you enjoy how we have opened up our aromagregory company to include bath recipes, aromatherapy education and information on soap making.  Gregory.

 

MAKING HANDMADE SOAP

soap making instructionsWe hope that over time our blog will become your number one source for soapmaking instructions.  We will continue to add soap recipes to our site as well as a number of soap making tutorials about a variety of soap making methods.  This website is our outlet for teaching soap making.  So, if you have been looking for someone to teach soap, we hope you will browse around our site and learn all you can.  Here you will find information on how to make cold process soap, packaging soap, selling handmade soap as well as techniques like – how to make soap swirls, how to identify trace, making liquid soap and more.

Supplier Review – Specialty Bottle

Supplier Review 

I’ve been using Specialty Bottle for years, mainly for glass bottles for essential oils.  Other items that I have ordered from them in the past and been pleased with are their brushed aluminum bottles and their candle tins.

I only wish they were closer.  Shipping from California to Tennessee can take a few days.  Of course, because of the distance, I always order a few extra bottles to allow from breakage.  And there is usually one to three glass bottles broken out of the pack of 160 I order.  But hey, should I insist that the buy more bubble wrap than they do?  In the long run, that will only increase the costs of the products.  No, I’d rather order a few extra bottles as insurance just in case I might need them.

One thing I really like about the Specialty Bottle website is that your order begins totalling itself in the right column.  There, you can also check to see how much shipping is going to be before proceeding to checkout – which is really terrific for those days when you go a little wild and order glass jars you really don’t need, only to discover that you’ve upped your shipping 50% with that impulse to shop!

Recently, I ordered 250 cobalt blue bottles and 25 amber dram bottles.  Unfortunately, the drams arrived with no lids.  When I called, they were immediately on the problem.  When I checked my email a half hour later, there was already a tracking number for the dram lids that were on their way.

Their prices are hard to beat, EVEN if you’re shipping across country.  And it is such a convenience to find a bottle supplier that INCLUDES the lid in the cost!  There’s nothing that gets on my nerves more than going to a website where I must go to another page on the site to buy lids for bottles.  And, those sites rarely sell the lids in the same quantities as the bottles.  Not so with Specialty Bottle.  Bottle and lid, one page and one price.

How many years have I been ordering from Specialty Bottle?  Without getting up and digging around old records, if I had to venture a guess I would say since 2003, maybe longer.  Eight years and I’m still loyal?  They must be doing something I like!

Shiny Shower or Healthy Skin

Gregory White

Customers amaze me sometimes. Okay. I admit. I get amazed by them on a weekly basis.

Recently, a customer came in complaining about itchy skin. I asked her what kind of soap she used. She said DOVE and a variety of shower gels from the mall. I went on to explain to her how our soaps are made with oils of olive, soybean, shea and coconut. That they were only scented with real essential oils and the coloring either came from spices or minerals. Nothing unnatural for her skin to disagree with.

And what do you think she said?

“I’ve tried using good soap before. But, you see, I have this really nice shower with shiny tile. When I use real soap I have to wash it more often.”

At first, I just sort of looked at her, searching for the right words. “There’s a reason for that,” I said. “The tub is staying clean because you’re washing YOURSELF with detergents. And what do you usually use when you clean the tub?” I asked in a leading tone.

“Detergent?” she said.

“So, you’d rather have a super shiny shower that people hardly ever see than to take great care of your skin which people see all the time?”

“I know. But I love my shower.”

“Do you have a second bathroom? With a shower or tub?” I asked her. (Her husband is laughing at the entire conversation)

“Yes,” she said.

“Good.” I told her. “Trust me. Just buy the soap and it will help with your itchy skin. Just use it in the OTHER bathroom.”

She bought three bars. Sometimes, you really have to work for a sale.

– Gregory White

Castile Soap recipe

CASTILE SOAP

As a professional soap maker, the topic of castile soap is one of my personal pet peeves. It simply doesn’t mean what it used to. Originally produced in Spain, it was made from pure olive oil only. Today, companies use the term to describe a soap that is made using just one type of oil. I’ve seen others have a variety of oils in the ingredient list and put the word “castile” on the label. Oh well, enough ranting. Here’s a recipe for pure olive oil soap.

44 oz. olive oil
13.2 oz. water
5.6 oz. lye
(optional) 3 oz. of your favorite essential oil

(keep in the mind that certain essential oils like clove and cinnamon can seize a batch of soap, especially when using 3 full ounces in a 44 ounces of oil base.)

follow standard soap making instructions found on our HOW TO MAKE SOAP page.

I was surfing the web today and found another site with a pure Castile recipe. I’m glad to find someone else out there that knows and appreciates what real castile soap is. Also, her recipe includes beeswax. In 11 years of soapmaking, I’ve never incorporated beeswax into a batch of my soap. But her recipe has me intrigued. Now I want to try it. Hey, after a decade of making soap, you have to try new things to keep the craft fresh. Her recipe is found on her blog here: http://titus2keeperathome.wordpress.com/2010/10/08/make-your-own-castile-soap/

All Natural Body Butter

NATURAL BODY BUTTER RECIPE

This body butter recipe is 100% natural. It is made entirely of oils with no water added, excluding the need for preservative. The addition of Vitamin E helps to prevent rancidity. Extra jars can be store in the refrigerator to prolong the shelf life.

10 ounces soy wax (like soy candles are made from)
1 ounce castor oil
1 ounce shea butter
16 ounces olive oil
1.5 ounces sweet almond oil (or oil of choice)
teaspoon Vitamin E
30 drops lavender essential oil
25 drops palmarosa essential oil
15 drops bergamot essential oil

Melt the soy wax and shea butter together. Have the olive oil, sweet almond and the castor oil blended together in a large mixing bowl while waiting for the soy-shea oils to melt.

When the soy wax and shea butter have melted, pour into bowl with liquid oils and blend with emulsion blender (also known as a stick blender) You may use a regular hand blender, such as used for making cakes, but be aware that if your bowl is not deep enough you just might be repainting the kitchen when the oils splatter on the wall.

It will take a while for the mixture to cool enough for it to begin to thicken. Don’t bother with burning up the motor in your stick blender by trying to blend the entire time. Going back to the mixture every few minutes for more blending is just fine. During this watch-and-wait game, this is the time to add your essential oils and vitamin E, then proceed with blending.

You are waiting for it to thicken up to the consistency of runny pudding. If it is jarred before it reaches the thickening stage, the body butter may seperate, creating a layer of oil on top of the hard oils. When it reaches that pudding point, it will thicken up very quickly and needs to be poured into your jars.

Makes approximately seven, 4 ounce jars.

Note – if the mixture becomes too thick to pour into jars, you can either spoon it into the jars or slightly begin to remelt, mix and pour again.

Sandalwood Patchouli Soap recipe

SANDALWOOD PATCHOULI

Sandalwood is my absolute favorite oil. But it is super, super pricey! A one ounce bottle may cost you as much as $85 plus shipping, sometimes more. But, you can always substitute fragrance oil for the real thing — or, use part sandalwood fragrance oil and part sandalwood essential oil. Another replacement is an essential oil called Amyris, also known as “poor man’s sandalwood”. Whatever your wallet decides, the recipe below is based on the assumption that you’re ready to make the real thing! By the way, the patchouli seems to make the sandalwood scent a bit stronger.

13 oz. coconut oil
20 oz. olive oil
2 oz. castor oil
2 oz. palm oil
3 oz. shea butter
4 oz. sunflower oil
13.2 oz. water
6.2 oz. lye
1 oz. sandalwood essential oil
2 oz. patchouli essential oil
follow standard soap making instructions….

Natural Body Powder recipe

Body Powder Recipe

2 cups arrowroot flour
1 cup organic brown rice flour
1 1/2 cups cornstarch
3 tablespoons Kaolin clay
45 drops lavender essential oil

combine all powdered ingredients together and blend well. Add the lavender essential oil about 10 drops at a time and remix the powder with your fingers, breaking up and redistributing any clumps that were made by adding the essential oil. When all essential oil is incorporated into the flour – powder mixture, you can run the entire batch through a flour sifter in the event that some of the clumps do not mix in well.

Store in glass jars and use a powder puff or bottle into containers made especially for body powders.

Coffee Soap recipe

COFFEE SOAP – chef’s coffee soap recipe

Coffee soap is used primarily in the kitchen. It creates a chemical
reaction that removes that smell of onion and garlic from your hands
when washing with it. Just as we made tea for our calendula soap, now
it’s time to brew a pot of coffee. Brew a strong batch of coffee – at least
as much as you’ll need for your batch (13.2 ounces). Allow to completely
cool and use as your lye water. Due to the addition of a full cup of
coffee grounds to your oil batch, this recipe will make more than your
mold can handle. Be prepared with an extra, single bar mold or throw
the remainder of the batch away (never down the sink).

28 oz. olive oil
10 oz. vegetable shortening
6 oz. coconut oil
13.2 oz. water
5.8 oz. lye
2 oz. coffee fragrance oil
1 cup dark roasted coffee grounds
5 tablespoons powdered cocoa

follow standard soap making instructions…. OUR STANDARD SOAP MAKING INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOUND ON THIS PAGE

The deep, dark, rich color of this soap is reminiscent of espresso. Using a small amount of whole coffee beans on top of the soap enhances the scent, provides texture and looks pretty nice, too when giving coffee soap as a gift. When using the soap, be sure to take off the whole beans from the top of the soap to avoid clogging the bath drain. Makes a wonderful kitchen soap, but give coffee soap a whirl in the shower (is reported to help temporarily shrink cellulite). Soaps made with Coffee have become quite the rage among coffee fanatics. People who just want to experience the rich aroma of coffee even while cleansing and washing!

Marigold Honey Skin Cream

MARIGOLD AND HONEY DRY SKIN CREAM

48 ounces Calendula tea
2.6 ounces emulsifying wax
1 ounce beeswax
1/2 teaspoon honey
1.5 ounces shea butter
1 ounce cocoa butter
2 ounces olive oil
1.5 ounces soy wax
.6 ounces phenonip or Germaben II
40 drops rosewood essential oil
5 drops palmarosa essential oil

This cream is made as a water-in-oil emulsion, meanings, the oils are added to the water instead of adding water to the oil. Create as you would any other lotion or cream, melting all oils and waxes together aside from the water phase. Incorporate preservative and essential oils as the last step.

For basic lotion and cream making directions, see our page on MAKING LOTIONS AND CREAMS

NOTE: water-in-oil, in this emulsion the oil is the main phase and has water packed into it in microscopically small droplets.
oil-in-water, in this emulsion the water is the main phase, with tiny droplets of oil being surrounded by water.

Rose Clay Spa Soap recipe

ROSE CLAY SPA BAR

This soap is a rather indulgent bar. The beauty of the rose clay and the blend of essential oils remind you of a day at the spa. This bar has a stable lather, but not a fluffy one. However, the moisturizing properties are high and it leaves your skin feeling silky smooth. After all, look at those luxury oils in the recipe – you may want to keep this one all to yourself.

17 oz. olive oil
9 oz. palm oil
7 oz. coconut oil
8 oz. shea butter
2 oz. avocado oil
1 oz. evening primrose oil
13.2 oz. water
5.9 oz. lye
2 oz. lavender essential oil
½ oz. carrotseed essential oil
½ oz. geranium essential oil
4 teaspoons rose clay
follow standard soap making instructions….

Calculating Soap Mold Volume

CALCULATING SOAP MOLD VOLUME

There are so many things that can be used for soap molds – cat litter boxes (new, of course), shoeboxes, and cigar boxes – okay, you get the point, boxes are great for soap molds. Once you decide on the exact size of mold you prefer, a wooden box makes an excellent mold as it is sturdy and durable.

Thoroughly lining your mold of choice with a thick trash bag will prevent leaks and allows the finished soap to slip out easily. My first experience with wooden soap molds was of the hinged variety – where the sides would drop down for easy removal of the soap. However, I found that when the mold is well oiled and lined with a trash bag it is unnecessary to have hinged or removable sides. The soap slips easily out of a solid wooden box when it is lined properly.

So, how to figure out how much soap base you need for a box or mold you already have? The calculations are simple.

Mold length x mold width x depth x .38 = ounces of soap making oils that will fix in your mold.

Some people fill their molds all the way to the top. I prefer to leave a little room as far as the depth goes. For example, if I want my soap bars to be 3 inches high, I would favor a soap mold that is at least 3 ½ inches deep. It is a personal preference.

Lets try an example with an imaginary box you’ve found in the attic. The box is 10 inches long, 3 inches wide and 4 inches deep. Let us presume you only want to fill the box 3 inches deep, instead of all the way full. This calculation for soap volume would be –

10 x 3 x 3 = 90

90 x .38 = 34.2

So, now we know that you soap mold will hold 34.2 ounces of soap making oils. This calculation for volume includes the amount of water and fragrance or essential oils that are normally used when making a batch of soap.

This math calculation will allow you to determine much soap formula you will need for any square or rectangle container you are considering using as a soap mold.

Master Batch Soap Making

HOW I MAKE SOAP – THE RTCP
MASTER BATCH METHOD

First of all, I want to say that anything you could ever think of, someone else, somewhere else, has already been doing for a very long time. I don’t claim to have invented these methods. I’ve taken bits of information that I’ve learned from others, combined them with my own experiences (sometimes mishaps that became blessings) and devised a method that worked best for me.

I made soap the same way for the first few years – melting each batch and waiting for it to cool, patiently waiting for the lye water to reach the same temperature as the cooling oils. When you have several soaps to be made, this process can take hours, even days to complete. One morning, I ran across an article in a small publication about a soap maker who had been making soap for several decades. He found the “temperature thing” totally unnecessary and a waste of time. Soon, I discovered other soap makers were discussing this method called RTCP: Room Temperature Cold Process.

To put it simply, RTCP is the act of premixing your oils and allowing them to cool to room temperature. Separately, the lye water is premixed, allowed to reach room temperature then simply mix the two batches together when its time for making soap.

The thought of having lye water lurking around unattended did not appeal to me. So, I decided to experiment with taking this method to another level. On the first day, I made what I now refer to as a “Master Batch”.

The Master Batch recipe will give you enough base to make five full loaves of soap; each loaf creating twelve, four ounce bars when fully cured.

Additional equipment for the Master Batch Recipe –

Empty, clean five gallon bucket
Large canning pot for melting (23 quarts or more)

Master Batch Recipe:

7 lbs. 8 ounces Vegetable Shortening*
3 lbs. 2 ounces Coconut Oil
3 lbs. 2 ounces Olive Oil

*vegetable shortening varies in different parts of the United States. Some regions have a partial cottonseed blend which shouldn’t affect your soap at all. Crisco-type shortening is a good alternative. Just be sure to read the labels carefully when doing your shopping — many shortenings contain beef fat or partial beef fat. This master batch recipe calls for all-vegetable shortening.

Measure Olive Oil into your empty five gallon bucket and set aside. Now measure your vegetable shortening and coconut oil into your large canning pot and melt on the stovetop on medium-low. When fully melted, carefully pour the contents into your waiting bucket of olive oil. (It’s best to place the bucket of olive oil on the floor to avoid any mishaps). Now, stir with your stick blender until fully mixed. I use an electric drill with a paint stirring attachment for blending the master batch. As the batch cools, repeat the stirring process whenever you get the chance and allow to cool overnight. The next day, give it a final, vigorous blending until the mixture looks fully incorporated. The final master batch will have a runny, pudding-like quality to it. You now have five full batches of soaping oils ready to be measured out individually and turned into soap.

Master Soap Recipe:

2 lbs. 12 ounces master batch
13.5 ounces water
6.2 ounces lye

Here is where the time-saving tips come into play — when making soap, I don’t wait for anything to cool, wait for a certain time to color my batch or try to figure out when to scent the batch. Using the same safety guidelines listed in the Standard Soap Making Instructions (goggles, gloves, respect for the lye, etc.) here is the way I normally make soap.

1. Measure 2 lbs. 12 ounces of master batch into a 3 gallon bucket.
2. Weigh 13.5 ounces of water into my lye pitcher then slowly add the 6.2 ounces and lye and stir until dissolved.
3. Add colorant (usually oxides) into master batch and stir with stick blender until fully colored.
4. Add any botanicals / additives the recipe calls for.
5. Weigh and measure essential oils and add to the master batch, stirring again.
6. Slowly pour the hot lye water into the 3 gallon bucket of colored and scented master batch and begin mixing with stick blender. Trace usually takes approximately five minutes before it’s ready to pour into the molds.

Basically, what I have done is streamlined every step that was time-consuming, turning the operation into a smooth day of batch-after-batch soap making. Pretty easy, huh?

IMPORTANT !!!!!
DO NOT skip over anything that is a safety precaution! Wear your goggles and gloves, remember that lye is corrosive and don’t forget to hold your face away from the pan while mixing. Remember to keep your stick blender immersed in the soap you are blending and don’t splash around. Don’t forget — you add lye to water , you do NOT add water to lye. (The snow falls on the lake, remember?) Your eyesight and the safety of your children and your pets are more important than any batch of soap. If you remain aware of what you are doing and do it with thought, you’ll be fine. Simply pay attention to what you’re doing and it will be as easy as baking a cake.

You are ready to tackle a variety of recipes using the same “base” of oils that we have called the “Master Batch”. Later on, we’ll try some recipes that require the use of different oils and luxury additives. In the meantime, the recipes that follow are some really great soaps! Each of these recipes was poured into molds with inside measurements that were 15 ½ inches long, 2 inches deep and 3.75 inches wide. This is based on the molds the I used in this process. You can use molds that are slightly larger, but keep in mind that the soap bars will be thinner. Any smaller and you’ll have leftover soap to pour.

For determining how much oil to use for the soap mold YOU have, see our article on CALCULATING SOAP BATCH AND MOLD SIZE.

The two master batch recipes below are examples. You can create a wide variety of soap by simply switching essential oils, or replacing with fragrance oils or experimenting with a variety of colors and spices.

GRAPEFRUIT ORANGE SOAP

This bar is great for anyone that loves citrus scents. This particular soap takes a little longer to trace and the addition of calendula petals make pretty yellow flecks throughout the soap. Soaps with all citrus oils have a tendency to “lock in” the fragrance when cured. Meaning, the bar doesn’t seem to smell very strong but does when you get the soap wet in the bath or shower. If you’d like to anchor the scent a little more, replace ½ ounce of the sweet orange essential oil with patchouli essential oil.

2 lbs. 12 oz. master batch
13.5 oz. water
6.2 oz. lye
1 oz. pink grapefruit essential oil
1 oz. sweet orange essential oil
1 oz. 5-fold orange essential oil
3 tablespoons calendula petals
1/16 teaspoon yellow oxide colorant
follow soap making instructions….

SUNSHINE SOAP

The reason I call this bar “sunshine” is the fact that it is a great scent to wake up with. The peppermint helps to wake you up in the morning while the citrus oils bring about a cheerful mood to start the day with.

2 lbs. 12 oz. master batch
13.5 oz. water
6.2 oz. lye
1 oz. pink grapefruit essential oil
1 ½ oz. sweet orange essential oil
½ oz. peppermint essential oil
1 teaspoon peppermint leaves
1/16 teaspoon fluorescent yellow pigment
follow soap making instructions….

History and Definition of Soap

WHAT IS SOAP, ANYWAY?

You’ll be surprised to learn that many of the ingredients that go into soap making are already in your kitchen. Soap is the end-result of mixing oils, lye and water. Whether you pull it off the supermarket shelf, buy the melt-and-pour soap from your local craft store or make it yourself from scratch, all soap begins with this process which is know as saponification.

During the excavation process of ancient Babylon, clay cylinders were found with a soap-like substance inside. This shows evidence that the process of soap making was around as early as 2800 B.C. The cylinders had inscriptions describing the process of boiling fats with ashes (a primitive form of soap making).

Records reveal that the ancient Egyptians bathed on a regular basis. The Ebers Papyrus, a medical document dated around 1500 B.C., describes combining alkaline salts with animal and vegetable oils to form a soap-like substance to be used for washing.

The story that sticks out in my mind most is the Roman legend of Mount Sapo (which, by the way, gave soap its name). Women noticed that washing their clothing was easier when done in the Tiber River which was directly below Mount Sapo, where ritual animal sacrifices took place. After a rainfall, a mixture of animal fats and ashes made its way down the mountain, turning into a crude form of soap along the way.

Later, early soap makers used potash, which was leached from wood ashes as their alkali base for soap making. Its results were often-times unpredictable, sometimes unpleasant in smell, and created soap that was more utilitarian than luxurious.

In the 1700’s, A French chemist named Nicholas Leblanc, invented a process for making an alkali using common salt.

During the 1800’s, a Belgian chemist named Ernest Solvay, discovered a process in which ammonia helped to extract the soda ash from salt efficiently. It soon became more readily available and its superiority, in turn, increased the quality of soap making.

In the 1940’s chemists discovered how to change the molecular structure of some naturally occurring substances. What they discovered was called “detergent” (to differentiate it from soap). The big advantage to detergents is that they work well in hard or cold water and can be formulated to clean specific types of dirt and stains. Modern detergents (known as syn-dets, or synthetic detergents) have become quite sophisticated and are seen in many, many forms. In fact, the majority of the cleaning products on the market are actually detergents of some type or another. Even commercial bar soaps commonly contain all or part detergents. As a result, there is a new, common definition of soap. The common definition of soap now refers to any product that bubbles and cleans, particularly if it is in a bar form.

This seems to have created the confusion regarding what real soap actually is. Hardeners, whiteners, lather boosters, chemical fragrances (sometimes with as many as 500 separate chemical components to create their unique scent) are often found in “over the counter” store-bought, “soap” or detergent bars.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard the phrase, “oh, but I can’t use lye soap on my sensitive skin.” Let me reiterate something one more time: ALL soap begins with lye (or something just like it) and don’t let anyone try to tell you differently. The chemical name for lye is sodium hydroxide. When you read the label on a bar of soap, this is appears to be a bit disguised. Sodium Tallowate is the main ingredient found in most commercial soaps. What they are actually saying is that sodium hydroxide (lye) has been mixed with tallow (rendered from beef fat) and, in mixing these ingredients together, they have created a brand new word for you, the consumer — sodium tallowate. How clever.

So, what is the difference between making your own soap at home and the lye soap that our great-grandmothers made? There is a big difference. Most people I have encountered usually mention this is conversation, saying, “My grandmother used to make lye soap and it would rip your hide off.” That may be true but granny didn’t have a digital scale, back then, did she? Today’s modern soap maker has greater access to a wide range of quality ingredients. Granny did not have help from modern technology to let her know exactly, down to the gram, how much lye she was supposed to use in her combination of oils. Furthermore, dear Granny’s oils may have consisted of anything from beef fat to a whole season’s worth of saved-up bacon grease drippings.

In my book, MAKING SOAP FROM SCRATCH, this is what I cover – how to make all-vegetable, cold-processed soaps that are gentle to the skin without the addition of unnecessary chemical fillers. Wondering if you will be able to make good soap? This is what I tell people all the time, “If you can cook, you can make soap.” Gregory.

Fizzing Bath Bomb Recipe

Fizzing Bath Bomb Recipe
ingredients:

• 1 part citric acid
• 2 parts baking soda
• Witch hazel
• Coloring of your choice
• Essential oil or Fragrance oil
• Round Shaped Mold or smooth melt and pour soap mold

Blend the citric acid and baking soda extremely well. Just when you think you have blended the mixture enough, blend some more. Blending is crucial – if you don’t blend well, you’ll end up with a grainy bath bomb.

Once you’ve blended really well, add your colorant. Dry pigments work well but be sure not to add too much. The color will intensify when the witch hazel is added. If you choose to use food coloring, add the coloring to the baking soda only, mix well, then add in the citric acid and blend some more.

While stirring with one hand, add fragrance oil or essential oil. Use your nose to determine the proper amount you prefer but keep in mind that essential oils are potent.

With a fine spray bottle, spritz the witch hazel onto the batch of bath bomb mixture while stirring quickly with the other hand. Don’t overdo it. If you use too much moisture the citric acid will begin to activate and fizz. When the batch sticks together when squeezed, begin placing into the molds. Work quickly or have a friend waiting to help get the mixture into the molds. If you work slowly, the bath bomb mixture will get hard.

When placing the mixture into the molds, be sure to pack them firmly. The more pressure you place on the bath bomb mixture when placing into the molds, the better your bath bomb will be. Wait two to three minutes and gently tap out your bath bombs. Allow to air dry between two and four hours or overnight.

Fizzy Milk Shea Butter Bath Bombs
1 cup baking soda
1/2 cup corn starch
1/2 cup citric acid
1/3 cup epsom salts (grind finely in a coffee grinder)
1/4 cup powdered milk
2 teaspoons luxury oil (sweet almond, grapeseed, etc.)
2 teaspoons melted shea butter
1tsp fragrance or essential oil

Use fizzing bath bomb instructions above for assembling bath bombs.

Essential Oil benefits

ESSENTIAL OIL BENEFITS – basic list of essential oils and their benefits

One of the greatest treats in soap making is experimenting with
combinations of essential oils. Unlike fragrance oils, which are usually
chemically manufactured scents, essential oils are very potent. Each oil,
like the plants they are derived from, are different in their basic makeup
which is why there is such a difference in price among the oils. Essential
oils can begin (at wholesale pricing) from the neighborhood of $12 per
pound all the way up to $1300 per pound (and more).

Many people have asked whether the aromatherapy benefits
survive the soap making process. To my knowledge, as of this writing,
that research has not been done. Chemically, many of them most likely
do, to a degree.

I do believe the emotional benefits of the oils come through in
soap. Smelling them activates the olfactory system and can bring about a
shift in emotions. Mints have the ability to wake you up, Citrus oils are
cheering, Lavender seems to relax you, etc.

You will have to decide for yourself which oils you would like to
use according to their safety precautions. Using essential oils in soap is
definitely a manner of “diluting” an oil. Furthermore, the soap is rinsed
off in the bath or shower — unlike a massage where the essential oils are
rubbed into the skin via a carrier oil and left on the skin until the next
bath time.

The essential oils listed below is meant for
information purposes regarding the way essential oils are currently being
used. If you have any concerns, feel free to consult a physician before
using a specific oil. It is probably always a good idea to listen to the
advice of the pregnancy precautions.

Anise – (pimpinella anisum)
Sweet, licorice like scent often used during the hunting season to mask
the human scent. Also applied to bait to attract fish. Cheering, euphoric,
energizing, sense enhancing, antibacterical, coughs, deodorant,
menopause. Parts used: seed pod. Dilute well before use. Do not use
during pregnancy.

Bergamot – (citrus bergamia)
Citrusy, fresh, woodsy scent. Cheering, concentration, aggression,
confidence, grief, nervous tension and stress. Said to help with the stress
of Parkinson’s Disease and PMS moodiness. Good for withdrawals. Parts
used: peel of fruit. Phototoxic. Do not expose applied area of skin to
direct sunlight or tanning bed for 24 hours.

Cedarwood – (cedrus atlantica)
Dry, sweet, woodsy balsamic scent. Balancing, grounding and
strengthening. Often used to promote self-control and to balance
spirituality. Possible uses: acne, dry hair, rheumatism, oily skin, immunity
booster. Parts used: wood. Avoid during pregnancy. May irritate extra
sensitive skin.

Cinnamon Leaf – (cinnamomum zeylancium)
Hot, spicy scent — richer in aroma than ground cinnamon. Invigorating,
refreshing, warming, aphrodisiac properties. Often used by those with
low blood pressure. Good for exhaustion & fatigue. Antifungal. Parts
used: leaf. Avoid if you have high blood pressure. Dilute well before use.

Citronella – (cymbopogon nardus)
Slightly fruity, fresh, lemony scent. An oil that is known to be refreshing,
stimulating, soothing & vitalizing. Most popular for being a powerful
insect repellent. Antiseptic properties, good when you have a cold. Parts
used: grass. Avoid during pregnancy.

Clary Sage – (salvia sclarea)
Earthy, herbaceous & slightly fruity scent. Known as the “woman’s oil.”
Good for use as an antidepressant, for PMS and Menopause. Also good
for fatigue, fear & stress. Is often used to help promote vivid dreaming.
Parts used: flowering tops, herb. Avoid with a history of breast or
ovarian cysts or estrogen-dependent cancer. Do not overuse while
drinking alcohol.

Clove Bud – (eugenia caryophyllata)
Spicy, warming, rich but slightly bitter scent. Possible uses: memory loss,
stimulating, energizing, warming. Also known for use as an antiseptic, for
sprains, strains and is often used (in part) by dentists for toothache. Parts
used: flower buds. A possible mucous membrane irritant. Not to be used
by alcoholics, haemophiliacs or those with prostate cancer.

Eucalyptus – (eucalyptus globulus)
Clean, fresh, medicinal scent. A balancing, cooling & stimulating oil often
used with colds, coughs, muscular fatigue & sinusitis. Also helpful when
you have bronchitis, the flu or slight fever. Parts used: leaves & twigs.
Avoid with a history of epilepsy or if you have using homeopathic
remedies. Do NOT take internally — toxic.

Fir Needle – (Abies alba)
Woody, earthy, fresh scent. Known for stimulating circulation. Often
used for muscle pain, arthritis & rheumatism as well as elevating the
emotions and helping with stress. Parts used: leaves (needles), twigs.
Dilute well before use.

Frankincense – (Boswellia carterii)
Spicy, woody, fruity & fresh smell. For the mind, frankincense is often
used for anxiety, exhaustion and for focus. Reported to help with scars
and wrinkles. Has been used in history for blessing and consecration.
Parts used: resin. Avoid during pregnancy. Regarded as generally safe.

Geranium – (Pelargonium graveolens)
Floral but sweet smell with fruity undertones. Often used for nerves,
stress and for relaxed, intense focus (such as self-hypnosis). Has been
known to calm those who suffer from Alzheimer’s and Muscular
Dystrophy. Parts used: flowers, leaves, stalks. Avoid if a history of
estrogen-dependant cancer or hypoglycemia.

Ginger – (Zingiber officinale)
Smoky, spicy, woody scent. For the mind, used for memory loss and to
anchor the emotions. Good for nausea, motion sickness, aches & sprains
and the nausea associated with migraine headaches. Parts used: roots
(stems). May irritate extra-sensitive skin. Dilute well before use.

Jasmine Absolute – (Jasminum officinalis)
Exotic, floral, rich, sweet scent. Used often in the perfume industry. Has
relaxing, sedative properties and is said to be an aphrodisiac. Also good
as an antidepressant, for PMS & Menopause. Parts used: flowers Avoid
during pregnancy. Extended use has narcotic-like properties.

Juniper Berry – (juniperus communis)
Crisp, sweet & herbaceous with a fruity note. Often used for gout, jet lag
and hangovers as well as for memory loss, clearing the mind and
exhaustion. Said to have detoxifying and toning properties. Parts used:
berries Avoid during pregnancy. Avoid if a history of kidney disease or
high blood pressure.

Lavender – (lavandula officinalis)
Floral, fresh, light, herbaceous scent. Is said to bring about love and
peace. Good for insect bites, to calm the nerves, help with sleeping —
soothing & relaxing. Also good for burns, bruises, itching and headaches.
Parts used: flowering tops. Avoid during first trimester of pregnancy.

Lemon – (citrus limonum)
Rich, fresh smell similar to fresh lemon rinds. Used to uplift the spirits as
it is balancing, cheering and refreshing. Often used to reduce warts, for
fainting and hayfever. Good ingredient in cleaning and dish washing.
Parts used: peel of fruit. Phototoxic. Do not expose applied area of skin
to direct sunlight or tanning bed for 24 hours.

Lemon Eucalyptus – (eucalyptus citriodora)
Sweet, lemony smell with a woody note. Known to be calming and
purifying. Reported by the CDC to be a good, natural substitution for
DEET in combating mosquitoes. Contains some of the same properties
as regular eucalyptus. Parts used: leaves, twigs. Dilute before use.

Lemongrass – (cymbopogon citratus)
Fresh, lemony, grassy scent. For the mind, used for irritability, mental
fatigue, stress & nervous exhaustion. Often used as a mild insect
repellent, for light cases of athlete’s foot and reported to be good for
cellulite. Parts used: grass, leaves. Avoid during pregnancy or a history of
high blood pressure.

Lime – (citrus aurantifolia)
Green, fresh, citrusy, sweet scent. Stimulating, uplifting & cheering, lime
is know for helping raise the spirits and makes a good antidepressant.
Good for skin toning as an astringent and is said to help with dandruff.
Parts used: peel of fruit. Mildly phototoxic. Try to avoid direct exposure
to sunlight where lime has been used on the skin.

Palmarosa – (cymbopogon martini)
A floral, grassy, rose-like scent. Good for creativity, aggression & anxiety.
Said to work quite well for wrinkles, dermatitis, hair loss & PMS
symptoms. Associated with healing and love. Parts used: whole plant
Avoid with a history of high blood pressure.

Patchouli – (pogostemon cablin)
Rich, earthy, woody aroma. Known as a general aphrodisiac. Good for
relaxation as well as concentration. Said to be good for wrinkles, acne,
dandruff and athlete’s foot. Best known as the incense commonly used in
the 1960’s. Parts used: leaves Generally regarded as safe. Do not take
internally.

Peppermint – (mentha piperita)
Minty, strong peppermint candy smell. Cooling, refreshing, revitalizing
and stimulating. Is good for headaches, nausea & jet lag. Mixed in base
oils or lotions, is good for muscular aches and rheumatoid arthritis. Parts
used: whole plant Avoid during pregnancy or a history of high blood
pressure. Use in small amounts. Avoid contact with eyes.

Pink Grapefruit – (citrus paradisi)
Citrusy scent, similar to a grapefruit rind. A good uplifting oil — good
for concentration and to promote happy thoughts. Reported to be good
for migraines, hangovers, PMS symptoms & hair loss as well as being
antibacterial. Parts used: peel of fruit. Phototoxic. Avoid contact with the
sun or tanning beds after using oil on skin.

Rosemary – (rosmarinus officinalis)
Sweet, fresh, herb-like, medicinal scent. Good for grief and fatigue as
well as clearing out the mind. Often used as an antiviral, a decongestant
and for muscular aches. Also known as an immunity stimulant. Parts
used: leaves. Avoid during pregnancy or a history of high blood pressure
or epilepsy.

Rosewood – (aniba rosaeodora)
Sweet, woody and fruity with a floral scent. Good for mild cases of
depression and clearing out confusion. Often used for headaches, PMS,
scars, sensitive skin and stretch marks. Parts used: wood, twigs. Generally
regarded as safe. Do not take internally.

Sandalwood – (santalum album)
Woodsy, balsamic, deep perfume-like scent. Used to center the thoughts
and also used in meditation and as an aphrodisiac. Known for being used
for wrinkles, chapped skin, dry hair and dandruff. Parts used: wood. Do
not take internally.

Spearmint – (mentha spicata)
Fresh, minty, sweet smell — less potent than peppermint. Often used for
sniffing during times of morning sickness. Also good for stimulating and
reviving as well as asthma, headache and nausea. Parts used: leaves. Use
in small amounts. Large amounts may irritate mucous membranes.

Sweet Orange – (citrus sinensis)
Citrusy, sweet, strong scent like orange peels. Good antidepressant and
uplifting oil. Has been used for drug withdrawal symptoms, stress and for
its slight sedative properties. Often associated with joy, luck and money.
Parts used: peel of fruit. Avoid use in sun. May irritate sensitive skin if
not diluted properly.

Tangerine – (citrus reticulata)
Bright, deep citrusy smell like tangerine peels. Relaxing, cheering &
soothing. Astringent, Antiseptic, Antispasmodic, Antidepressant. Parts
used: peel of fruit. Avoid use in sun. May irritate sensitive skin if not
diluted properly.

Tea Tree – (melaleuca alternifolia)
An herbaceous, green, earthy scent — slightly medicinal. The scent has
cleansing and cooling properties. Has been used for centuries for burns,
bug bites, scrapes and cuts. Also good for athlete’s foot, blisters, boils
and sunburns. Parts used: leaves, twigs. Do not take internally. Can be
used neat (undiluted) in small amounts on many people. Test patch first.

Ylang-Ylang – (cananga odorata)
Floral, slightly fruity, delicate, perfume-like scent. Promotes euphoria,
relaxation and is often thought of as an aphrodisiac. Lowers blood
pressure. Good for its sedative properties and for shock. Parts used:
flowers. Avoid if a history of apnea or low blood pressure.

Chamomile Face Soap recipe

CHAMOMILE FACE SOAP

The high olive oil content creates a wonderful face bar.
Palmarosa is a grass from Central America with a scent that reminds you
of a lemony version of rose geranium. It is reported to help with
wrinkles as well as being a cellular stimulant. The chamomile tea is a less
expensive way of imparting its skin healing properties. If your budget
allows for some chamomile essential oil (it’s rather expensive), feel free
to add 15 or 20 drops to this batch of soap.

28 oz. olive oil
10 oz. vegetable shortening
6 oz. coconut oil
13.2 oz. water
5.9 oz. lye
3 oz. palmarosa essential oil
½ oz. patchouli essential oil
Contents of one chamomile tea bag

follow standard soap making instructions, see the tab at the top of the website called HOW TO MAKE SOAP.

MORE ABOUT CHAMOMILE
Dried chamomile flower is an age-old medicinal drug known in ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome. Chamomile’s popularity grew throughout the Middle Ages, when people turned to it as a remedy for numerous medical complaints including asthma, colic, fevers, inflammations, nausea, nervous complaints, children’s ailments, skin diseases and cancer. As a popular remedy, it may be thought of as the European counterpart of ginseng.

Recent and on-going research has identified chamomile’s specific anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-allergenic and sedative properties, validating its long-held reputation. This attention appears to have increased the popularity of the herb and nowadays Chamomile is included as a drug in the pharmacopoeia of 26 countries.

Chamomile has been used for centuries in teas as a mild, relaxing sleep aid, treatment for fevers, colds, stomach ailments, and as an anti-inflammatory, to name only a few therapeutic uses. Extensive scientific research over the past 20 years has confirmed many of the traditional uses for the plant and established pharmacological mechanisms for the plant’s therapeutic activity, including antipeptic, antispasmodic, antipyretic, antibacterial, antifungal, and antiallergenic activity.

In hair care, chamomile has often been used as a hair rinse for blonde hair. Some soaps that were designed for the hair include chamomile as well as bottled liquid soaps (shampoo). The main purpose for including chamomile in your soap recipe is its reputation for being soothing to the skin.

Suspended Salt scrub recipe

SUSPENDED SALT SCRUB

½ cup Epsom Salt
½ cup liquid soap
¾ cup olive or sweet almond oil
1.2 ounces of melt and pour soap
1 teaspoon of fragrance or 25 drops of essential oil

Blend the Epsom salt in a coffee grinder until fine. Mix the liquid soap and the melt and pour soap together and heat until melted. Works best in a double boiler or can be melted in the microwave if monitored closely. When melted, pour in your olive or sweet almond oil (you can substitute other oils you prefer) and blend well with an emulsion blender (stick blender). Add fragrance or essential oils and blend again. By hand, mix in the pulverized Epsom salt and stir well.

Once the mixture sets up completely, the salt should remain suspended throughout the scrub and not separate. Use as an exfoliating body scrub.

Using Preservatives in Lotions and Creams

Preservatives in lotions and creams

About using preservatives and antioxidants

Vitamin E and Rosemary Oleorsesin Extract, also known as ROE are both antioxidants. (do not confuse ROE with rosemary essential oil, they are two different creatures entirely). Antioxidants prevent oils from going rancid as quickly as they normally would if left out under normal conditions. So, this makes them good additions to recipes that have oil in them to increase the recipe’s shelf life. Vitamin E (also known as Vitamin E T-50) and ROE do not kill germs or prevent them from growing in lotions and creams. Being antioxidants does NOT make them preservatives. Usage – Vitamin E, 1 % of total formula weight. ROE – 0.1% of total formula weight.

Phenonip and Germaben II, and Germall Plus are actual preservatives. They inhibit the growth of microorganisms, yeast and fungus in lotions, creams, etc. If one is making products for resale, the FDA requires that you put a preservative in any cosmetic that is not a soap. If you are simply making products for your personal use, you do not have to include preservative. However, if you choose not to preserve your lotion or cream (or other formula) then you must treat the finished product as a perishable food item. Either use it up quickly or store in the refrigerator and use within two weeks.

Germaben II and Germall Plus are water soluble. This means that they will only work if water is the major ingredient in your recipe. These products do not withstand high temperatures well, so they must be added when your recipe is finished and cooled to 100 degrees F or below.

Germaben II ingredients – Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben. Use 1% of total formula.

Germall Plus ingredients – Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropenyl Butacarbamate. The liquid form of this will list Propylene Glycol as the first ingredient. Usage – 0.2% – .05% of total formula weight.

Phenonip is oil soluble, and so is better for products where oils comprise the majority of ingredients in your formula. Phenonip can also withstand much higher temperatures, allowing more flexibility regarding what stage you add the preservative to your recipe.

Phenonip ingredients: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben. Usage – 1% of total formula.

LiquaPar Oil

LiquaPar Oil is a clear, liquid blend of isopropyl, isobutyl and n-butyl esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid. It is a very stable and effective preservative against gram positive and gram negative bacteria, yeast and mold. LiquaPar Oil is readily incorporated into various types of formulations, including anhydrous products, without heating. It is a good choice for salt scrubs and bath oils where no water is present but may be inadvertently introduced to the container during regular use, such as dipping a wet hand into a jar of sugar scrub while in the shower. Usage – 0.3 – 0.6% however, in complex formulations, 0.1% Germall II may be required for adequate preservation.

Recommended usage rates are meant as guidelines only. All new formulations should be challenge tested to ensure proper preservation.

Lotions and Creams must be protected against Bacterial, Microbial and Fungal attack and also from rancidity. Good hygiene and usage of safe Preservatives and Antioxidants protects you and your customers from potential injury. Preservatives protect against microorganisms, yeasts and fungus while Antioxidants guard against rancidity. The use of both a preservative and a antioxidant while lengthen the shelf life of your lotions and creams.

Hippy Girl Patchouli Soap

Hippy Girl Patchouli Soap Recipe

This patchouli soap recipe truly brings out the inner hippy. A rich blend of luxury oils, this makes for a nice, hard bar of patchouli soap.

5 ounces castor oil
5 ounces sweet almond oil
15 ounces cocoa butter
10 ounces coconut oil
20 ounces olive oil
10 ounces liquid soybean oil
10 ounces sunflower oil
1/8 teaspoon powdered clove (optional)
26 ounces water
10.2 ounces lye (sodium hydroxide)

2 ounces patchouli essential oil
½ ounce lavender essential oil
(if you prefer, leave out the lavender essential oil and use 2.5 ounces of patchouli oil)

Go by standard soap making instructions. Link found at top of website under soap making. After proper cure time, get out your tie-dyed shirt. The patchouli soap has arrived.

About Patchouli Soap
Patchouli is an herb, a fragrant herb with egg-shaped leaves and square stems. When the scent is added to a soap, Patchouli Soaps are often described as sweet, spicy, and woodsy all at the same time. Others describe Patchouli soap as pungent, mossy, and musty. Patchouli is often used as a low note in perfumes and aromatherapy blends, anchoring the other scents, and mixing or blending to enhance the scents with which it is combined in soap. Patchouli and natural patchouli soap has also been positively linked to improvement of several skin disorders, from reducing chapped, cracked skin and scar tissue to reducing irritation caused by eczema. It has been used to treat athlete’s foot and jock itch, and skin allergies.

Patchouli Soap is an excellent choice for men although women love it as well.

Calendula Soap recipe

CALENDULA SOAP

The calendula flower has been used for centuries to calm irritated
and sensitive skin. While the flower is abundantly easy to find, the
essential oil is not. Occasionally, you may find a supplier with true
calendula absolute but be prepared for the high price. For our soap, we’re
going to make a calendula tea and use it as our lye water.

Put approximately 20 (more than needed to allow for shrinkage)
ounces of water in your tea kettle or favorite pot along with a handful of
dried calendula petals on medium-high heat. When it reaches near the
boiling point, remove from heat and allow to cool, stirring occasionally.
Strain the flowers from your fresh batch of calendula tea and use
(completely cooled) for your lye water. Using teas in your batch makes
for an extra creamy soap.

27 oz. olive oil
10 oz. coconut oil
3 oz. cocoa butter
3 oz. palm oil
1 oz. shea butter
13.2 oz. calendula tea
6.1 oz. lye
2 oz. lavender essential oil
1 oz. palmarosa essential oil
4 teaspoons calendula petals

OUR STANDARD SOAP MAKING INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOUND ON THIS PAGE: making soap

More about Calendula

Calendula have been grown as a garden plant for many years throughout North America and Europe. The golden yellow flowers of Calendula officinalis have been used as medicine for centuries. Traditionally, Calendula have been used to treat conjunctivitis, blepharitis, eczema, gastritis, minor burns including sunburns, warts, and minor injuries such as sprains and wounds. It has also been used to treat cramps, coughs, and snake bites. Research continues into the healing properties of Calendula.

Historically, Calendula flowers have been considered beneficial in reducing inflammation, promoting wound healing, and used as an antiseptic. Calendula has been used to treat a variety of skin diseases and has been seen effective in treatment of skin ulcerations and eczema. Taken internally through a tea, it has been used for treatment of stomach ulcers, and inflammation. A sterile tea has been used to treat infections of the eye, like conjunctivitis, however, this practice is not recommended.

Solid Shampoo Recipe

SOLID SHAMPOO
Every soap maker must, at least once, try to make solid shampoo.
Most people are amazed that have options other than the bottles of
commercial hair products that line the shelves of salons and pharmacies.
True, it is really more of a favorite among people with short hair. The
secret is to allow you hair to air-dry. Then, you really feel how soft and
silky your hair can be from a simple bar of soap.

13 oz. coconut oil
12 oz. castor oil
2 oz. cocoa butter
1 oz. jojoba oil
16 oz. olive oil
13.2 oz. water
6.1 oz. lye
1 oz. lavender essential oil
2 oz. rosemary essential oil
15 drops chamomile essential oil (optional)
1 egg yolk (no whites)
follow standard soap making instructions

OUR STANDARD SOAP MAKING INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOUND ON THIS PAGE: making soap

More about Solid Shampoo

A solid shampoo is basically the same thing as regular bottled shampoo. The main difference is the high water content. Solid shampoo differs from regular bar soaps because of the types of oils that are used to create them. Almost always, you will find jojoba and castor oil in solid shampoo recipes because the hair just loves these two oils.

Solid shampoo is also easier to use when traveling due to the regulations for carrying liquids on airplanes. To make a simple natural conditioner for your solid shampoo, simply take 5 parts water to one part apple cider vinegar and rinse through the hair after shampooing.

It takes a little time getting use to solid shampoo bars. But once you do, you’re hooked. People who do a lot of hiking and camping can make a special batch of solid shampoos and use citronella and lemon eucalyptus essential oils in the blend. This will help keep away ticks while camping. Also easy to cut off a small piece of solid shampoo and slip it in a baggie for a quick weekend trip.

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